DECAPEPTIDE-12

Summary

Decapeptide-12 is a synthetic topical peptide used as a skin-brightening cosmetic agent that inhibits melanin synthesis via tyrosinase inhibition ^[1]. An open-label study reported improvements in photodamage grading over 24 weeks, with treatments well tolerated ^[1], and a separate open-label evaluation of a system combining 0.01% decapeptide-12 with buffered glycolic acid showed progressive reductions in Melasma Area and Severity Index scores (up to 60% at 16 weeks) in 33 Hispanic women ^[3]. A small report described combined topical delivery and dermalinfusion accelerating resolution of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation ^[2], and formulation work explored skin permeation strategies ^[4]. Evidence is limited to small, mostly open-label cosmetic studies without placebo-controlled RCTs, so conclusions about efficacy should be treated cautiously.

Sources

1. 1. Open-label evaluation of the skin-brightening efficacy of a skin-brightening system using decapeptide-12 Journal of cosmetic and laser therapy : official publication of the European Society for Laser Dermatology, 2012.
2. 2. Combined topical delivery and dermalinfusion of decapeptide-12 accelerates resolution of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in skin of color Journal of drugs in dermatology : JDD, 2014.
3. 3. Open-label evaluation of a novel skin brightening system containing 0.01% decapeptide-12 in combination with 20% buffered glycolic acid for the treatment of mild to moderate facial melasma Journal of drugs in dermatology : JDD, 2013.
4. 4. Enhanced skin retention and permeation of a novel peptide via structural modification, chemical enhancement, and microneedles International journal of pharmaceutics, 2021.

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